15 Apr Learning to surf: the steps you need to know

Surfing, in its essence, is a captivating dance with the waves that has conquered hearts all over the world. Today, it has evolved to become an exciting and challenging sport that attracts people from every corner of the planet and of almost all ages.

A unique blend of adrenaline and serenity is experienced by those who practice this exercise, which has earned a reputation for offering a liberating and transformative experience. The sensation of gliding over a wave or feeling the force of the ocean around you as you ride the tube is hard to describe and even harder to forget. It is this inexplicable allure that makes surfing more than just a physical activity, it is a way of life.

The first written documents on surfing date back to the second half of the 18th century and belong to the British navigator James Cook who, upon arriving to the Hawaiian Islands, observed locals on a platform surfing the waves. However, other theories also point to the Polynesian peoples and the Peruvian culture as precursors of this millenary art as a form of connection with the ocean and spirituality.

This article dives into the crucial fundamentals that every aspiring surfer should know before embracing the waves. Because, while the attraction to surfing may be instantaneous, mastering this art requires patience, dedication and, above all, a deep respect for the ocean. So, before diving into the salty waters, it is essential to understand that surfing, like any discipline, requires a solid foundation of knowledge and skills. It should also be noted that, ideally, you should be able to take a surfing course, at Mojo Surf we have courses for all levels.

The importance of learning the fundamentals is not just limited to improving your technical skills; safety also plays a vital role. The ocean is a dynamic and powerful environment that demands respect and understanding. Knowing the basics of surfing will not only allow you to enjoy the experience more fully, but will also provide you with the necessary tools to face the challenges that may arise, always starting from the premise that the sea is a powerful force that we cannot control.

So, before you embark on the thrilling adventure of surfing, let’s stop for a moment to explore the foundations of this exciting sport. From understanding wave formation and tide conditions to understanding the technique to embrace the waves with confidence and respect, join us on the fascinating journey through this world, at Mojo Surf we will tell you the secrets that make it a unique and unforgettable experience!

The heart of surfing beats to the rhythm of the waves, and understanding their language is essential for those who wish to master the art of gliding over them.

Understanding wave formation

Waves are the result of the interaction between the wind and the ocean surface. It begins with the force of the wind creating ripples on the surface of the water, becoming what we know as waves. These waves travel thousands of miles before reaching the shore, carrying with them a unique energy. Knowing the process of wave formation gives surfers a deeper understanding of their behavior and allows them to better anticipate and take advantage of the opportunities they offer.

In addition, not all waves are the same and the diversity in wave shape and size adds an exciting component to surfing. From gentle, steady beach waves to challenging tubes on reef breaks, each type of wave presents its own set of challenges and rewards. Recognizing these differences is essential to choosing the location and wave type that best suits your skill level and preferences.

Therefore, the ability to read the ocean goes beyond understanding wave formation. It involves assessing sea and wind conditions in real time. Wind direction and strength, as well as tide and underwater topography, significantly influence how waves behave. A skilled surfer learns to interpret these elements to make informed decisions about where and when to enter the water, thus maximizing the experience and minimizing risk. A positive aspect of the development of new technologies is that there are numerous websites where all these parameters can be observed, such as Surf Forecast.

In short, knowing the waves is like learning the alphabet of surfing. This knowledge not only improves your ability to cope with different conditions, but also adds an extra layer of appreciation for the complexity and beauty of the ocean.

Position, paddling and Take Off: the initial dance with the waves

This chapter dives into the subtle movements of standing on the board, the paddling techniques to conquer the point where the wave itself begins to push and the exciting transition to standing, known as the “Take Off”. Here, the connection between body and board comes to life, marking the beginning of an exciting journey on the waves.

Before launching into the ocean, the beach offers a canvas to hone fundamental skills, strengthen the specific muscles used in surfing, improve coordination and polish techniques without facing the forces of the water. The position on the board is the foundation on which all other surfing skills are built, both balance and maneuverability all depend on proper positioning. In turn, preparing the Take Off and working on the paddling on dry land are very necessary, as these exercises not only prepare physically, but also contribute to the construction of muscle memory that translates into improvements in the water.

The beach also offers specific exercise routines, not only to improve technique, but also to prevent physical injuries and improve cardiovascular fitness. It is vital to optimize strength, endurance and flexibility.

Before you face the exciting task of standing up on the board, it is crucial to master your paddling. Efficient paddling will not only get you to the right place at the right time, but will also conserve your energy for the exciting phases that follow. Be careful not to let your head swing from side to side, as this will have a big impact on the speed and efficiency of your paddling. Since the main thing that slows you down in the water is the resistance to forward motion, this is what happens when your head does not stay still.

Keeping your elbow high when your hand is about to enter the water will give you a huge benefit. It may seem simple, but it is one of the key techniques for proper paddling. If your hand and forearm stay vertical, then you will be able to grip the water and propel yourself forward with a greater area and for longer. The famous barrel drill will help you achieve optimal paddling.

The “Take Off” moment is the culmination of preparation, paddling and anticipation. Here, the transition from lying on the board to standing on the wave requires precision and speed. To achieve a successful Take Off, you need to anticipate the wave and start paddling before the wave reaches your position, this will allow you to pick up enough speed. Load your weight on the front part of the board trying not to sink the tip of the board. When you feel enough speed, take advantage of the inertia of the wave to get up. It is advisable to rent a surfboard before buying, to evaluate which type best suits your style.

The perfect posture, the paddling, the balance or the Take Off are just some of the elements needed to surf and make every movement an expression of your connection with the ocean. It takes time and practice, and it is always better to opt for a surf course to learn the basics properly. At Mojo Surf we are waiting for you to enter together in the fascinating world of surfing and start building unique memories and emotions!